Natural hair comes in many textures, and understanding how to care for and style each one makes a real difference in the mirror, not just on paper. One of the most popular classification systems is the Andre Walker Hair Typing System, which sorts hair into four types: Type 1 (straight), Type 2 (wavy), Type 3 (curly), and Type 4 (coily/kinky). There's a lot of range there.
This post focuses on managing Type 4 hair, which is further divided into three subtypes: 4a, 4b, and 4c.
Type 4a Hair
Type 4a hair has a distinct S-pattern and is tightly coiled, with a lot of shrinkage, and it tends to be fragile, so handle it with care. The key is moisture. Use a leave-in conditioner and seal it in with an oil or butter, then detangle carefully with a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush.
Styling tips: Twist-outs (twist small sections with product, let dry, unravel for defined curls), Bantu knots (twist and wrap hair around itself into knots), and Wash-and-gos (wash, apply styling product to define curls, air dry or diffuse).
Type 4b Hair
Type 4b hair is tightly coiled with a Z-pattern and significant shrinkage, and like 4a, it's fragile, and it thrives on moisture, leave-in conditioner sealed with oil or butter, and careful detangling. Same rules apply.
Styling tips: Braid-outs (braid small sections with product, let dry, unravel), Flat twists (twist hair secured flat to the scalp), and the Puff (gather hair into a loose ponytail at the crown and fluff for volume).
Type 4c Hair
Type 4c hair is tightly coiled with a Z-pattern, and it has the most shrinkage of all Type 4 subtypes, and it's the most fragile too, so gentle handling is essential. Keep it moisturized with leave-in conditioner sealed with oil or butter. Detangle with care.
Styling tips: Afro puffs (gather into a high ponytail and fluff), Twist-outs, and Bantu knots.
General Tips for Managing Type 4 Hair
Consistency is everything.
- Keep your hair moisturized. All Type 4 hair needs plenty of moisture, so moisturize daily to prevent breakage and promote healthy growth. Every single day.
- Use gentle hair products. Sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners promote healthy growth, and you should avoid harsh chemicals and irritants. Nothing harsh, ever.
- Detangle carefully. Use a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush, starting from the ends and working up to the roots, and detangle wet hair with plenty of conditioner in it. It's worth the time.
- Protect your hair at night. Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase, or wear a satin or silk bonnet or scarf. It matters more than people think.
With the right care and styling techniques, you can embrace and enhance the beauty of your Type 4 hair. That's the whole point.
